The story
Welcome to the Campo dei Mori, a quiet, sun-dappled square tucked away in the heart of the Cannaregio district. As you stand here, surrounded by the worn brick and the gentle lapping of the canal water, you are in the presence of Venice’s most famous stone residents. Look toward the corners of the buildings.
You will see them: three figures dressed in exotic robes and bulky turbans, frozen in stone for nearly a thousand years. These are the Mastelli brothers—Rioba, Sandi, and Afani. They were wealthy merchants who arrived in Venice from the Morea, in Greece, around the year 1112.
They built the grand palaces you see around you, but while their pockets were full of gold, their hearts were reportedly full of greed. The most famous legend tells of a local widow who was swindled by the brothers during a business deal. When she realized she had been cheated, she prayed for a sign.
As the brothers swore on their souls that their goods were of the highest quality, a divine coldness surged through their veins, and they were instantly transformed into the statues that still stand guard over this square today. The most celebrated of the trio is Sior Antonio Rioba, standing right at the corner of the house. He is easy to spot, not just for his heavy merchant’s pack, but for his face.
Look closely at his nose. In the 19th century, his original stone nose fell off and was replaced by a makeshift piece of iron. This iron nose turned Rioba into a local legend.
For centuries, he was Venice’s version of a talking statue. Just as Romans did with the statue of Pasquino, Venetians would secretly pin poems, satires, and biting complaints against the city’s governors to Rioba’s stone back. If you walk just a few steps along the canal toward the Palazzo Mastelli, look up at the facade.
You will see a beautiful stone relief of a man leading a camel. This was the brothers’ trademark, a reminder of the long caravans that brought their silks and spices from the East. Just around the corner is the red house where the great painter Tintoretto lived and died, adding another layer of artistic history to this silent corner.
Before you leave the Campo dei Mori, tradition dictates that you should give Sior Rioba’s iron nose a gentle rub. It is said to bring good luck and ensure your return to the city of canals. As you continue your walk, remember the Mastelli brothers—a permanent reminder that in Venice, even the stones have a story to tell, and some of them might still be watching you.