The story
Listen to the rhythm of your footsteps as you walk. You are treading on the kaldrma, the uneven Turkish-style cobblestones that have paved the way for Belgrade’s poets, rebels, and dreamers for over a century. This is Skadarska Street, the center of the Skadarlija district.
If Belgrade has a soul, it resides right here, amidst the scent of grilled meats, the vine-covered facades, and the mournful, wandering strains of a violin. In the late 19th century, this area was a humble neighborhood on the edge of the city, but as Belgrade’s intellectual life grew, the artists followed. They were drawn to the low prices and the high spirits of the local taverns, known as kafanas.
For a Serbian, a kafana is not just a tavern; it is a pharmacy for the soul, a parliament for the common man, and a home for the homeless heart. One of the most legendary stops on this street is the Three Hats, or Tri Šešira. Opened in 1864 in what was formerly a hatmaker's workshop, it has remained virtually unchanged for over 150 years.
Imagine the ghosts of the famous guests who have sat exactly where you are standing now, from local legendary actors to international figures like Jimi Hendrix and George Bush. The Three Hats is a living monument to the Belgrade spirit, where the wine flows as freely as the conversation. As you continue your stroll, look for a modest house at number 34, marked by a bronze statue of a man sitting pensively.
This was the home of Đura Jakšić, the quintessential Serbian bohemian. Jakšić was a giant of the Romantic era—a gifted painter, a fiery poet, and a man who lived with a glass in one hand and a pen in the other. He lived and died right here in 1878.
It is said he was so beloved that when he passed, the entire city fell into mourning. Today, his house is a cultural hub, and his statue remains a silent witness to the nightly revelry he loved so much. Pause for a moment and take in the atmosphere.
Do you hear the music? That is Starogradska, or old town music. Usually played by a small orchestra of violins, accordions, and guitars, these songs tell stories of lost love, the Danube river, and the passing of time.
In Skadarlija, the past isn't behind you; it’s right here, tucked into every doorway and mural. Find a wooden bench, order a small glass of rakija, and let the magic of the street take over. You aren’t just visiting a tourist attraction; you are joining a century-old tradition of living life to its fullest.