The story
Welcome to Şirince. As you stand here among these narrow, winding lanes, take a deep breath. The air up here, scented with mountain thyme and woodsmoke, feels worlds away from the heat of the Aegean coast.
You are walking through a living archive of stone and spirit, a village that owes its existence to the shifting sands of history. To understand Şirince, we must look down toward the valley. Long ago, the great city of Ephesus was a bustling port, one of the most important in the ancient world.
But as the centuries passed, the Cayster River brought down silt, slowly choking the harbor and pushing the sea miles away. As the marshes grew and the malaria set in, the people of Ephesus began to look toward these cool, green hills for sanctuary. They brought with them their traditions, their faith, and their resilience, founding a settlement they called Kirkintzes.
Legend tells us that the residents were so fond of their hidden paradise that they didn't want any outsiders to find it. When asked about their home, they would say it was "Çirkince," which means "Ugly." They hoped the name would discourage visitors.
It didn't work. By the time the 1920s arrived, the governor of Izmir visited and was so struck by its beauty that he officially renamed it Şirince—the "Pleasant" or "Charming" village. Look at the houses lining these cobblestone paths.
This is the classic Greek "Rum" style of architecture. Notice how the two-story buildings seem to lean toward one another, with their whitewashed walls and an abundance of windows designed to catch every ounce of the Aegean light. In 1923, a massive population exchange took place between Greece and Turkey.
The Greek Orthodox residents who had lived here for generations departed, and Turks from Thessaloniki and Kavala arrived to take their place. They brought their own skills, particularly in viticulture and fruit farming, which is why today you see shops offering wines made from mulberries, peaches, and blackberries. As you continue your walk upward, you’ll find the Church of St.
John the Baptist. Though its stones are weathered, it remains a focal point of the village’s spiritual history. Stand by the fountain in the courtyard and listen to the water; it is a sound that has echoed through these hills for hundreds of years.
This village is a bridge between eras—a place where the grandeur of ancient Ephesus met the humble beauty of the mountains. Whether you are tasting the local olive oil or simply resting on a stone wall, you are part of a story that refuses to be forgotten. Enjoy your climb into the clouds.