The story
Welcome to one of Oaxaca’s most soul-stirring corners. As you stand before the Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco, take a moment to breathe in the atmosphere. You aren't just standing in front of a church; you are at the heart of what many locals consider the oldest neighborhood in the city.
While the bustling Zócalo is only a short walk away, Jalatlaco feels like a secret world of its own, preserved in cobblestone and color. Look up at the facade of the temple. Notice the warm, earthy tones of the stone.
This is the famous cantera, the volcanic rock that gives Oaxaca its nickname, the Green City, though here it leans into shades of ochre and dusty rose. The church you see today was completed in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, replacing a much humbler adobe structure. It is dedicated to San Matías, or Saint Matthias, the apostle chosen to replace Judas Iscariot.
If you look closely at the architecture, you’ll see the hallmarks of the Mexican Baroque style. It isn't as grand or imposing as the nearby Santo Domingo, but there is an intimacy here that is rare. The two bell towers framing the entrance stand like silent guardians over the plaza.
In years past, this area was a separate village, a Zapotec settlement known as Xalatlaco, which means "sand in the water." It wasn't until the city expanded that it was fully integrated into Oaxaca de Juárez. For centuries, this neighborhood was the home of the coheteros—the traditional firework makers.
If you listen closely, you might still hear the ghost of a crackle in the air. The community here has always been fiercely proud and tight-knit. This spirit is most visible during the Day of the Dead, when the plaza before you transforms.
The church becomes the anchor for vibrant parades, or comparsas, and the surrounding walls are covered in some of the most stunning murals in Mexico. Step into the atrium for a moment of quiet. Inside, the church is simple but elegant, often filled with the scent of fresh lilies and beeswax candles.
It is a place where time seems to slow down. As you continue your walk, look at the streets radiating out from this temple. They are lined with vibrant street art and hidden cafes, representing a perfect bridge between Oaxaca’s colonial past and its creative future.
The Templo de San Matías isn't just a monument; it is the living, beating pulse of a neighborhood that refused to let its history fade. Enjoy the stillness here before you head back into the colorful labyrinth of the barrio.