The story
Welcome to Jalatlaco. As you step off the busy thoroughfares of Oaxaca’s city center and onto these uneven, hand-laid cobblestones, you might feel as though you have stepped through a portal into a different era. This is one of Oaxaca’s oldest neighborhoods, and while it is just minutes away from the bustling Zocalo, it moves at a completely different tempo.
The name Jalatlaco comes from the Nahuatl word Xalatlaco, which means sand in the ravine. Long before the Spanish arrived, this was a Zapotec village, later occupied by Mexica warriors who served as guards for the Aztec empire. For centuries, this area was physically separated from the main city by the Chiquito River, which once flowed where the Calzada de la República now stands.
Because of this separation, Jalatlaco developed a fiercely independent identity. As you walk down Calle Aldama or Calle Curtidurías, take a moment to look at the textures of the walls. For over three hundred years, this was the neighborhood of the tanners.
The street name Curtidurías actually translates to Tanning Shops. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the air here would have been thick with the scent of cured leather and the sound of artisans at work. While the tanneries have mostly vanished, replaced by quiet cafes and boutique hotels, that spirit of craftsmanship remains.
Look up at the vibrant murals that adorn almost every corner. Jalatlaco has become a living gallery. Unlike the political street art found elsewhere in the city, the murals here often celebrate the local culture and the neighborhood's deep connection to the Day of the Dead.
You’ll see towering skeletons, intricate floral patterns, and representations of local legends painted in colors so bright they seem to glow even in the shade. In the heart of the barrio stands the Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco. This humble yet beautiful church was built in the late 17th century.
Its façade, crafted from the local green and red cantera stone, is a masterpiece of colonial architecture. If the doors are open, step inside to see the quiet devotion that still centers this community. This plaza is the soul of the neighborhood, where neighbors still gather to talk as the sun dips low and the bougainvillea vines cast long, purple shadows against the yellow walls.
Jalatlaco is a place that invites you to get lost. It is a neighborhood that was nearly abandoned in the mid-20th century but was saved by residents who refused to let its history be paved over. Today, it is a testament to preservation and pride.
As you continue your stroll, let the scent of roasting coffee and the sight of hanging lanterns guide you. You aren't just walking through a neighborhood; you are walking through the very memory of Oaxaca.