The story
Welcome to Jalatlaco. I’m Avsha, and I’m so glad you’ve joined me here at Calle del Refugio 201. Take a moment to look around.
You aren't just standing on a street; you are standing inside a living gallery. While the grand stone plazas of Oaxaca’s city center are just a short walk away, Jalatlaco feels like a secret world held in a gentle, colorful embrace. The building right here at number 201, with its vibrant walls and traditional framing, is the perfect starting point to understand this neighborhood's transformation.
For centuries, Jalatlaco was a separate village, distinct from the colonial center. Its name comes from the Nahuatl word Xalatlaco, meaning sand in the ravine, a nod to the stream that once flowed nearby. In those early days, this was a community of artisans—specifically tanners and weavers.
If you listen closely to the quiet of the morning, you can almost imagine the rhythmic thud of the looms and the earthy scent of curing leather that once defined these corners. As you begin to walk, notice the ground beneath you. These aren't the flat, polished stones of the Zocalo.
These are the traditional cobblestones of a village that refused to be paved over by modernity. Above you, the sky is often framed by explosions of purple bougainvillea and strings of festive papel picado. But the real stars of Jalatlaco are the walls.
This barrio has become Oaxaca’s most famous canvas for street art. Every few months, the murals change, reflecting the soul of the city—from hauntingly beautiful depictions of the Day of the Dead to surreal Zapotec legends. Continue down the street towards the center of the neighborhood, and you will see the Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco.
This 17th-century church, built from the characteristic green volcanic stone of the region, has stood as the neighborhood’s spiritual anchor for over three hundred years. Its simple, elegant facade and red-domed roof provide a grounding contrast to the neon-bright cafes and galleries popping up in the old weavers’ cottages. Jalatlaco is a place that rewards the slow traveler.
It is a neighborhood of "callejones," or narrow alleys, where every turn reveals a hidden courtyard or a quiet coffee shop tucked into a colonial doorway. As you explore, remember that this beauty is preserved by a community that takes immense pride in its heritage. Whether you are here for the perfect photograph or the perfect cup of Oaxacan chocolate, you are part of Jalatlaco’s ongoing story—a story of a village that grew into a city but never lost its heart.
Stay a while, breathe in the stillness, and let the colors of Refugio guide your way.