The story
Welcome to one of Mexico City’s most storied and atmospheric corners. As you stand here in the center of Plaza Río de Janeiro, take a deep breath and feel the pace of the city soften. You are in the soul of the Roma Norte neighborhood, a place where European elegance meets a distinctly Mexican spirit.
This square wasn't always named after the Brazilian city; when it was first laid out in the early 1900s, it was known simply as Plaza Roma. It was renamed in 1922 as a diplomatic gesture of friendship to celebrate the centennial of Brazil's independence, reflecting an era when Mexico was looking outward to the rest of the world. Your eyes are likely drawn immediately to the giant standing tall in the center of the fountain.
This is a full-scale bronze replica of Michelangelo’s David. While it might seem a bit surreal to find a Renaissance masterpiece in the middle of Mexico City, it was placed here in 1976 as part of a project to bring world-class art to public spaces. The David has since become the neighborhood's unofficial guardian.
Notice how the fountain acts as a social magnet; on any given afternoon, you’ll see artists sketching, students sharing a coffee, and families lingering on the stone benches, all framed by a lush canopy of ash and jacaranda trees. Now, turn your gaze toward the corner of Durango and Orizaba streets. You cannot miss the imposing red-brick building with the pointed, hat-like roof.
This is the Edificio Río de Janeiro, but locals rarely call it that. To everyone in the city, this is La Casa de las Brujas, or the House of the Witches. If you look at the top corner, the architecture itself seems to form a face—the roof looks like a tall, crooked hat sitting over two windows that resemble eyes.
The legend of the building is even more haunting. For decades, it was the home of Bárbara Guerrero, a famous shaman known as Pachita. She was said to perform miraculous psychic surgeries here, attracting a clientele that ranged from desperate locals to high-ranking politicians and international celebrities.
As you wander the perimeter, notice the architecture of the surrounding mansions. Roma was developed during the Porfiriato era, a time when the Mexican elite were captivated by French style. You’ll see ornate balconies, stone carvings, and tall, arched windows that feel like they belong on a Parisian boulevard.
Today, these historic buildings house contemporary art galleries and quiet bookstores, representing the neighborhood's evolution into a modern cultural hub. Take your time, walk the shaded paths, and let the David keep watch as you soak in the timeless charm of this urban sanctuary.