The story
Welcome to one of the most enchanting corners of Mexico City. As you stand here in Plaza Río de Janeiro, take a moment to breathe in the cool air filtered through the canopy of towering trees. You are in the heart of Colonia Roma, a neighborhood that feels like a piece of early 20th-century Europe transplanted into the high valley of Mexico.
This square wasn't always named after the Brazilian city; when it was first laid out in 1903, it was simply called Plaza Roma. It was renamed in 1922 as a gesture of continental friendship, but for locals, it has always been the social and spiritual anchor of this bohemian district. Cast your eyes toward the center of the plaza, and you’ll see a very familiar figure.
Standing proudly atop the fountain is a full-scale bronze replica of Michelangelo’s David. It might seem a bit surreal to find a Renaissance masterpiece here, but the statue was installed in 1976 as part of an effort to bring classical art into the daily lives of residents. Over the decades, The David has become the neighborhood’s unofficial mascot, a stoic witness to the generations of writers, artists, and families who have called these streets home.
Now, look toward the eastern side of the square at the most striking building in the vicinity: the Edificio Río de Janeiro. You’ll recognize it easily by its weathered red brick and its peculiar, pointed roofline that looks remarkably like a face wearing a tall, floppy hat. This is the legendary Casa de las Brujas, or the Witches' House.
Local lore says that in the mid-20th century, a famous shaman and healer named Barbara Guerrero, known as Pachita, lived and worked here. It is said that powerful politicians and celebrities would visit her for mystical healings and psychic surgeries. Even today, as you look up at those window-eyes under the hat-like roof, it’s easy to feel the building’s mysterious, gothic energy.
As you walk the perimeter, notice the architecture. You’ll see elegant mansions from the Porfirian era, featuring French-inspired balconies and ornate stonework, standing alongside modern art galleries and chic cafes. This square is a survivor; it served as a vital gathering point during the recovery from the 1985 earthquake, symbolizing the resilience of the community.
I invite you to find a seat on one of the wrought-iron benches. Listen to the gentle splash of the fountain and the distant clink of coffee cups. Whether you are here for the ghost stories, the art, or simply the shade, Plaza Río de Janeiro invites you to slow down and let the history of Mexico City unfold around you.
Enjoy your walk.