The story
Welcome to the heart of Busan. As you step off the sun-drenched sands of Haeundae Beach and cross the bustling main road, you enter a portal to another era. This is the Haeundae Traditional Market.
While the skyline around you is dominated by gleaming glass skyscrapers and luxury hotels, this narrow, neon-lit alleyway has remained the culinary soul of the neighborhood for over a century. Established in the early 1910s, this market began as a simple gathering place for local farmers and fishermen to trade their wares. Today, it is a vibrant sensory explosion where the old world meets the new.
As you begin your walk down the main thoroughfare, take a deep breath. You’ll notice the air is thick with a savory, smoky aroma. To your left and right, large glass tanks are filled with swirling sea creatures.
This is Busan’s famous "Eel Street." Look for the vendors skillfully preparing Ggomangeo, or hagfish. It might look a bit intimidating at first, but this is a local delicacy.
Watching the chefs grill the eels over open flames with a spicy gochujang sauce is a performance in itself. The dish is prized by locals for its chewy texture and is said to provide a boost of stamina—perfect for a long day of sightseeing. Further down, the crowd usually thickens around a shop with a bright red sign called Sang-guk-ine.
This is arguably the most famous tteokbokki spot in the city. You’ll see massive iron pans filled with thick, cylindrical rice cakes bathing in a deep, crimson chili sauce. Notice the size of the rice cakes here; in Busan, they tend to be thicker and chewier than in Seoul.
Grab a paper cup of warm oden broth—the fish cake soup—to sip on as you navigate the stalls. It’s the ultimate Korean comfort food. As you continue, look up at the blue and white arched roof that protects the market from the elements.
This modern touch ensures the market stays lively even during the monsoon season. Interspersed between the food stalls, you’ll find small shops selling everything from colorful "ajumma" pants to hand-made kitchenware. These vendors are the backbone of the community, many having occupied the same few square feet for decades.
Before you reach the end of the alley, make sure to find a stall serving Ssiat Hotteok. These are sweet, chewy pancakes filled with brown sugar and cinnamon, then sliced open and stuffed with a handful of sunflower seeds and nuts. It’s a Busan specialty that offers a perfect crunch.
As you exit the market, you’ll find yourself back among the high-rises, but the taste of the sea and the warmth of the market’s hospitality will stay with you. Take your time, follow your nose, and don’t be afraid to try something new. Enjoy your walk through the flavors of Busan.