The story
Welcome to Dongbaekseom. As you begin your walk, notice how the air changes. You are stepping onto what was once a true island, though over centuries, sediment from the sea has tethered it to the mainland of Busan.
Its name translates literally to Camellia Island, and if you are here between late winter and early spring, you will see the deep red blooms that give this place its soul, standing in stark contrast to the dark green pine needles and the brilliant blue of the East Sea. Let’s start along the coastal wooden boardwalk. To your left, the jagged rock formations meet the crashing waves.
Keep an eye out for the bronze statue of Princess Hwangok sitting atop the rocks by the shore. Local legend says she was a mermaid princess from the distant, mythical Kingdom of Naranda across the ocean. Married to a king here, she spent her nights staring back toward her watery homeland, her tears supposedly turning into the sea foam you see dancing on the tide today.
It is a bittersweet greeting to the island, reminding us that Busan has always been a place of arrivals and longings. As we round the southern bend, the architecture shifts from the wildness of nature to high-tech elegance. This is the Nurimaru APEC House.
Its name combines the Korean words for world and summit, and its striking circular design was inspired by the traditional Korean pavilion, or Jeongja. In 2005, world leaders gathered here, and today you can still walk through the glass-walled halls where history was shaped. From the terrace, look out at the Gwangan Bridge stretching across the horizon like a string of diamonds.
Now, follow the path upward toward the summit of the hill through the dense groves. Here, we encounter the legacy of Choi Chi-won, a legendary scholar of the Silla Dynasty. He was so enchanted by the beauty of this spot that he carved the characters Hae-un-dae into a rock on the southern tip.
Those three characters gave the world-famous beach next door its name. Take a moment at his monument; it is a quiet, contemplative place where the wind whispers through the ancient pines, much as it did a thousand years ago. Finally, make your way toward the white lighthouse.
From this vantage point, you have perhaps the most iconic view in South Korea. To one side is the vast, open ocean; to the other, the futuristic skyline of Marine City, with its glittering skyscrapers reflecting in the water. It is this unique blend—the ancient myths of mermaids, the poetic legacy of scholars, and the modern pulse of a global city—that makes Dongbaekseom the true heart of Busan.
Take your time, breathe in the salt air, and let the island’s story unfold with every step you take.