The story
Welcome to one of the most photographed and evocative corners of Cusco. You are standing at the base of Calle Siete Borreguitos, a name that translates to the Lane of the Seven Little Lambs. As you look up this narrow, steep corridor of stone, you are looking at a staircase that bridges the ancient heart of the city with its most creative soul.
Take a moment to notice the texture of the walls around you—the classic Andean whitewash contrasted against the vibrant Cusco blue of the doors and window frames. This street earned its name from the colonial era, when local residents would lead their small flocks of sheep and llamas up and down these very steps to reach the higher grazing pastures. As we begin our climb, notice how the air feels a bit thinner here.
We are moving into the Barrio de San Blas, the neighborhood of the artisans. For centuries, this district has been home to the city’s finest woodcarvers, painters, and potters. The climb can be demanding, but the reward is found in the rhythm of the neighborhood—the sound of a hammer hitting a chisel or the smell of roasting coffee wafting from a hidden courtyard.
Near the top of this ascent, we arrive at the small, unassuming Plaza de San Blas. Dominating this space is the Templo de San Blas, a simple white church that looks modest from the outside. However, step through its heavy doors and you will find the treasure that defines this neighborhood’s artistic legacy.
Inside, the church houses the famous San Blas Pulpit, widely considered the finest example of woodcarving in the Americas. This pulpit is a marvel of the Churrigueresque style, an ultra-ornate Spanish Baroque. What makes it legendary is that it was carved entirely from a single massive trunk of cedar wood.
Every inch is covered in intricate figures of saints, cherubs, and vines. Local legend says it was the work of Juan Tomás Tuiru Túpac, an indigenous master carver who was miraculously cured of a deadly illness and dedicated his life to this work in gratitude. Look closely at the very top of the pulpit’s canopy.
You will see a human skull tucked among the carvings. Some say it is the skull of the artist himself, placed there as a final testament to his devotion. Standing here between the street of the lambs and the master’s pulpit, you are witnessing the true spirit of Cusco—a place where the humble traditions of the mountain people and the grand artistic ambitions of the colonial era are carved into the very stone and wood of the city.
Take your time as you reach the summit; the view of the red-tiled roofs below is just as breathtaking as the art inside.