The story
Welcome to one of Venice’s most enchanting secrets. As you stand here in the small, quiet courtyard of the Corte del Maltese, take a moment to breathe in the stillness. It is hard to believe that just a few minutes ago, you were likely surrounded by the bustling crowds of San Marco or the Rialto.
Here, tucked away in the heart of the San Marco district, the city reveals a different side of itself—a side that is intimate, vertical, and utterly unique. Look up at the magnificent structure before you. This is the Scala Contarini del Bovolo.
In the local Venetian dialect, "bovolo" means snail shell, and as soon as you lay eyes on the winding, rhythmic curves of this tower, you can see why. Built at the end of the 15th century for Pietro Contarini, this staircase was a flamboyant statement of wealth and prestige. While most Venetian palaces hide their grandest features inside, the Contarini family decided to turn theirs outward, creating a cylindrical tower that stands twenty-six meters high.
Notice the striking contrast of materials—the warm red of the Venetian brick set against the brilliant white Istrian stone of the arches. The architecture is a fascinating bridge between eras. You can see the lingering influence of the Gothic style in its elegance, but the airy, open loggias and the perfect geometry of the rising spiral are hallmarks of the burgeoning Renaissance.
There are eighty steps in total, winding upward in a continuous, graceful helix that seems to defy the cramped space of the courtyard. Legend says that Pietro Contarini commissioned this masterpiece not just for aesthetics, but for a very practical, if somewhat eccentric, reason: he wanted to be able to reach his private apartments on the top floor while remaining on horseback. Whether or not he actually rode up these steps, the tower certainly succeeded in its main goal—making the neighbors jealous and ensuring the Contarini name would be remembered for centuries.
If you choose to climb the spiral, you will find that the perspective changes with every turn. As you reach the dome at the very top, the "belvedere," the reward is one of the most breathtaking panoramic views in the city. From there, you are level with the red-tiled rooftops of Venice.
You can see the domes of St. Mark’s Basilica and the soaring Campanile, looking out over a sea of chimneys and narrow canals toward the distant lagoon. Even filmmakers have been captivated by this spot.
If the staircase looks familiar, you might be remembering Orson Welles’ 1951 film adaptation of Othello, where these very arches served as a dramatic backdrop. As you linger here in the shadow of the snail, remember that Venice is a city built on layers of history, often hidden just behind a non-descript alleyway. The Bovolo is a reminder that in this city, the most beautiful treasures are often the ones you have to seek out.