The story
Welcome to Assisi, a city that seems to grow directly out of the pink and white stone of Mount Subasio. You are standing before the Basilica of Saint Francis, a place that is not just a building, but a massive, three-tiered monument to a man who transformed the world through the power of simplicity. Before we step inside, look at the scale of this structure.
It was begun in 1228, just two years after Francis’s death, on a ridge formerly known as the Hill of Hell because it was the site of public executions. After the church was built, it was renamed the Hill of Paradise. As you enter the Lower Basilica, notice how the atmosphere shifts immediately.
The air is cool, the ceilings are low, and the light is dim. This space was designed to feel like a cave, reflecting the contemplative, inward-looking side of the Franciscan order. The walls around you are a treasure trove of medieval art.
Look for the works of Giotto and Cimabue, where the blue pigments still vibrate with life after seven centuries. These paintings were the comic strips of the Middle Ages, telling the stories of the Bible and the life of Francis to a population that could not read. Now, follow the steps down into the heart of the complex: the crypt.
This is the spiritual anchor of Assisi. For over six hundred years, the exact location of Saint Francis's body was a secret, hidden deep beneath the high altar to protect it from rival cities who might try to steal the holy relics. It wasn't until 1818, after fifty-two days of careful excavation, that his simple stone sarcophagus was finally rediscovered.
As you stand before the tomb, notice the four bronze lamps that burn perpetually, representing the four original provinces of Italy. The silence here is heavy and profound. Surrounding Francis are the remains of four of his most loyal companions, including Brother Leo and Brother Angelo, staying by his side even in death.
Finally, we ascend to the Upper Basilica. The transition is breathtaking. You move from the shadows of the earth into a soaring, light-filled space of Gothic arches and massive stained-glass windows.
This is the public face of the church, meant to celebrate the Saint’s glory. Walking along the nave, you will see the twenty-eight frescoes attributed to Giotto that depict the life of Francis. Look for the scene where he preaches to the birds or the moment he renounces his worldly wealth.
In 1997, a devastating earthquake brought parts of this ceiling down, but the meticulous restoration you see today is a testament to the world's love for this site. As you leave, carry with you the Franciscan greeting: Pace e Bene. Peace and Goodness.