The story
Welcome to the heart of Oaxacan devotion. As you stand here at the base of the massive stone staircase leading up to the Basilica of Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, take a moment to look at the ground beneath your feet. You are standing on green cantera, the volcanic stone that gives Oaxaca its nickname, the Green City.
This site is more than just a church; it is the home of the city’s patron saint and a masterpiece of earthquake-resistant design. To understand why this grand building stands here, we have to travel back to the year 1620. Legend tells us of a mule driver traveling from Guatemala to Mexico City.
As he passed through this valley, he realized he had an extra mule in his pack train. When the caravan reached this spot, the mysterious mule collapsed and died. When the driver opened the box the animal carried, he found a stunning image of the Virgin Mary, accompanied by a sign that read "Our Lady of Solitude at the Foot of the Cross."
The people saw this as a divine sign that the Virgin wanted to stay right here, and so, this basilica was built to house her. Now, look up at the facade. It is one of the most magnificent examples of the Baroque style in Mexico.
It resembles a giant stone folding screen or a massive outdoor altar. Notice how deep the carvings are, depicting saints and biblical scenes in high relief. You might notice the building feels unusually low and thick-set.
This was intentional. Oaxaca sits in a high-seismic zone, and after many earlier churches were leveled by tremors, the architects built these walls several meters thick to ensure the Virgin’s home would never fall. As you step through the heavy wooden doors, the bright Oaxacan sun fades into a cool, dim interior filled with the scent of lilies and beeswax.
Walk toward the main altar. High above, dressed in shimmering black velvet embroidered with gold and pearls, is the statue of the Virgin of Solitude. She wears a crown of solid gold, encrusted with hundreds of emeralds and diamonds.
For centuries, Oaxacans have come here to whisper their sorrows and joys to her, considering her the true protector of the city. Before you leave, make your way to the back of the church to visit the small museum, which displays the many robes and "ex-votos"—small tokens of gratitude—left by pilgrims. And as you step back out into the Plaza de la Danza, do as the locals do.
Head to the stalls at the edge of the plaza for a "nieve," a traditional Oaxacan sorbet. Try the "tuna," which is prickly pear, or the "leche quemada," burnt milk. It is the perfect way to finish your pilgrimage to this sanctuary of stone and spirit.