The story
Welcome to the historic heart of San José, a place where the scent of roasting coffee seems to linger in the very bricks of the pavement. You are standing in Barrio Amón, the city’s most elegant neighborhood and a living testament to the era when coffee was known as the "golden bean." The story of this district begins in the late 19th century with a visionary French émigré named Amón Fasileau-Duplantier.
At a time when San José was little more than a dusty colonial outpost, Monsieur Amón looked at the coffee plantations on the northern edge of the city and saw a refined, European-style suburb. By 1892, he began laying out these streets, creating the first planned residential neighborhood in the capital. It quickly became the prestigious address for the coffee barons—the wealthy oligarchs who made their fortunes exporting Costa Rican beans to the refined palates of London and Paris.
As you walk, look closely at the facades. You’ll notice a unique architectural fusion often called Tropical Victorian. These mansions were built to mimic the trends of Europe, but with a necessary Caribbean twist.
The high ceilings and large windows were designed to catch the breeze, while the ornate wooden fretwork and wrap-around porches—or corredores—provided shade from the intense tropical sun. Because stone was expensive and prone to earthquake damage, many of these "grand" houses are actually constructed of painted bahareque or imported brick, often adorned with colorful tiles and intricate cast-iron fences. One landmark you cannot miss is the Castillo del Moro, or the Moorish Castle.
Standing on the corner of Calle 3 and Avenida 13, its mudéjar-style arches and intricate mosaics seem like they were transported directly from Spain or Morocco. Built in 1930, it represents the eclectic tastes of the elite who wanted their homes to be as worldly as their business interests. Further along, you might pass the Alliance Française or the various boutique hotels like the Don Carlos.
These were once private residences where the destiny of the nation was discussed over porcelain cups of espresso. In the early 20th century, this was the center of Costa Rican political and social life. Today, Barrio Amón is experiencing a vibrant rebirth.
The old mansions that once housed single families now host art galleries, hidden garden cafes, and contemporary restaurants. Yet, as the modern city hums around us, the neighborhood retains its quiet, aristocratic dignity. Take a moment to look up at the intricate cornices and the vibrant bougainvillea spilling over the garden walls.
You aren’t just walking through a district; you are walking through the aspirations of a generation that dreamed of turning a small coffee republic into the Paris of Central America. Enjoy the stroll, breathe in the history, and let the echoes of the coffee age guide your way.