The story
Welcome to Avenida 9, the elegant spine of Barrio Amón. As you walk these streets, you aren’t just navigating a neighborhood; you are stepping into the "Belle Époque" of Costa Rica. Look around at the structures lining the way.
Notice how the rigid geometry of European architecture softens under the weight of the tropical sun. This is where the "grano de oro," or the golden bean, truly manifested. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the coffee barons—the men who grew wealthy exporting Costa Rican coffee to London and beyond—wanted their homes to reflect their worldliness.
They turned to Amón Fasileau-Duplantier, a French entrepreneur, to create this residential masterpiece. Stop for a moment and look at the intricate details of the facades. You’ll see a fascinating collision of styles: Neo-Victorian turrets, Art Deco curves, and even Neo-Mudejar influences.
Back then, these homes were symbols of an elite class that looked toward Paris for inspiration, yet they had to adapt to the Caribbean climate. Notice the high ceilings and the wide, shaded porches designed to catch the afternoon breeze. While these houses were once more muted in tone, today they are celebrated in a kaleidoscope of tropical colors—electric teals, dusty roses, and deep ochres—that make the neighborhood a photographer's dream.
One of the most striking landmarks you will encounter is the Castillo del Moro, or the Moorish Castle, located on the corner of Calle 3 and Avenida 9. Built in the 1920s, its intricate brickwork and blue-tiled accents transport you straight to Andalusia. It stands as a testament to the sheer architectural experimentation that defined this area.
As you continue your stroll, you might notice that many of these grand mansions have found new lives. What were once private parlors for sipping coffee and discussing politics are now boutique hotels, art galleries, and hidden-gem restaurants. Barrio Amón survived the rapid modernization of San José because its beauty was too stubborn to tear down.
Today, it serves as the city’s cultural heart, where the nostalgia of the coffee era meets a modern, bohemian energy. As you listen to the distant hum of the city, try to imagine the sound of horse-drawn carriages on these very stones a century ago. Take your time on Avenida 9.
Look up at the ornate cornices and the wrought-iron balconies. Each house has a secret, and each window reflects a time when San José was first introducing itself to the world as a capital of culture and wealth. Enjoy the rhythm of the neighborhood; it is the quiet, colorful pulse of Costa Rican heritage.