The story
Welcome to one of the most enchanting streets in all of Mexico City. As you begin your walk along Avenida Ámsterdam, take a look at the path ahead and notice its gentle, continuous curve. This is not your typical city grid.
You are actually standing on what was once the grand horse-racing track of the Jockey Club of Mexico. Back in the early 1900s, this oval was filled with the thunder of hooves and the cheers of the Porfirian elite, all gathered at the Hipódromo de la Condesa. The track was originally part of a vast estate belonging to the Third Countess of Miravalle.
When the neighborhood was developed in the 1920s, urban planners made a brilliant decision: instead of flattening the area, they preserved the racetrack’s unique shape, turning the racing circuit into this lush, tree-lined promenade. Today, the horses are long gone, replaced by a steady stream of joggers, neighbors catching up, and more dogs than perhaps anywhere else in the city. As you stroll, look up at the architecture bordering the avenue.
This area serves as a living gallery of Art Deco and Art Nouveau design. Look for the Edificio San Martín near the park, a stunning example of the era's elegance with its geometric symmetries and ironwork. You will also see the signature white concrete benches and the ornate Art Deco clocks that stand at the major intersections, keeping a rhythmic, old-world time for the modern city.
Make sure to pause at Plaza Popocatépetl. This is one of the three major plazas that punctuate the loop. Notice the central fountain, decorated with vibrant tiles, and the towering trees that create a cool, green sanctuary even on the hottest afternoons.
In the springtime, this canopy turns a breathtaking violet as the jacaranda trees bloom, carpeting the ground in purple petals. Avenida Ámsterdam is also a place of profound resilience. In 1985 and again in 2017, when powerful earthquakes struck the city, this street became a center for solidarity.
Neighbors lived out on these islands, helping one another and rebuilding the spirit of the district. Now, continue your loop at your own pace. Whether you are stopping for an espresso at a sidewalk café or simply admiring the way the sunlight filters through the ash and willow trees, let the rhythm of the avenue slow you down.
You are tracing a circle of history, moving through the past and present of a neighborhood that remains the bohemian soul of Mexico City. Enjoy the walk; here on Ámsterdam, the journey always brings you back to where you started, but with a new perspective.