The story
Welcome to National Highway 766, the historic ribbon of asphalt that stitches together the spice-scented coast of Kerala with the rugged plateaus of Karnataka. As you navigate these curves, your guests are likely peering out the window with a hundred questions. Let’s give them the answers they’re looking for.
The first thing everyone asks about is the Thamarassery Churam. These nine legendary hairpin bends are more than just a feat of engineering; they are a gateway to the clouds. Tell your guests to look out for the fourth and seventh curves, where the valley drops away to reveal the Malabar coastline in the distance.
And when you reach the top at Lakkidi, keep an eye out for the Chain Tree. Local lore tells of a tribal chieftain named Karinthandan who guided a British engineer through these secret paths. The engineer, wanting sole credit for the discovery, killed Karinthandan, but his spirit haunted the pass until a priest chained his soul to that very Ficus tree.
If you look closely, you can still see the heavy iron chains draped over the branches. As the road levels out into the Wayanad plateau, you’ll likely hear the question: why is this town called Sulthan Bathery? It sounds regal, and it is.
In the late 18th century, Tipu Sultan used the ancient 13th-century Jain Temple here as his "battery" or ammunition dump. The name stuck, turning a place of prayer into a colonial-era military landmark. Now, as the air cools and the teak trees grow taller, you are entering the Muthanga and Bandipur stretch.
This is where the most common question arises: why does the road close at night? Since 2009, a night traffic ban has been in place from 9 PM to 6 AM to protect the residents who truly own this land—the tigers, elephants, and leopards. This highway slices through one of the most vital elephant corridors in Asia.
We are guests in their living room, and the silence of the night allows the jungle to breathe without the glare of headlights. Remind your guests to watch the roadside salt licks. If they are lucky, they might spot a herd of Spotted Deer or a lone tusker standing in the shadows.
NH-766 isn't just a transit route; it is a journey through time, from the colonial ambitions of the British to the ancient migrations of wild giants. Enjoy the drive, keep your cameras ready, and remember that every curve on this road has a ghost, a king, or a tiger waiting to be discovered.