The story
Welcome to the Corran Esplanade, the crown jewel of Oban, where the mountains of the west meet the pulse of the Atlantic. As you stroll along this famous Victorian sweep, you are following in the footsteps of royalty and sailors alike. One of the first things people ask is about that massive stone structure overlooking us like a Scottish Colosseum.
That is McCaig’s Tower. It wasn’t built by Romans, but by a local banker named John Stuart McCaig in the late 1890s. He wanted to provide work for local stonemasons during a difficult winter and create a lasting monument to his family.
It remains unfinished, a hollow shell that offers the best view of the Hebrides you will find anywhere. Looking out across the water, you’ll notice the constant dance of the CalMac ferries. This is the Gateway to the Isles, the busiest ferry port in Scotland.
The island directly across from us is Kerrera, which acts as a natural breakwater, protecting this deep-water bay and making it one of the finest natural harbors in Europe. Further out, on a clear day, the jagged peaks of Mull dominate the horizon. Near the northern end of the esplanade stands the striking St.
Columba’s Cathedral. Designed by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott, the same man who designed the iconic red telephone box and Liverpool Cathedral, its neo-Gothic granite walls look centuries old, though it was actually completed in the 1950s. Just a short walk from there, you will see the Oban War Memorial.
Take a close look at the bronze figures; they represent a soldier, a sailor, and an airman, a tribute to the town’s massive strategic importance. During the Second World War, this peaceful bay was a bustling hive of military activity. It was a major base for RAF flying boats, specifically Sunderlands and Catalinas, which patrolled the Atlantic looking for U-boats.
If you look toward the water, imagine those massive planes taking off right from the surface of the bay. Finally, people always ask why the Oban Distillery is crammed so tightly into the town center. The truth is, the distillery was here first, founded in 1794.
The town literally grew up around the whiskey stills. Today, as the scent of malt mingles with the salty sea air, you are experiencing the true essence of the Seafood Capital of Scotland. Whether you are watching the sunset turn the water gold or waiting for the next ship to come in, you are standing at the very heart of the Highlands.
Enjoy the air, take in the history, and welcome to Oban.