The story
Welcome to the threshold of history. You are standing before the Torre del Reloj, the iconic yellow clock tower that serves as the main gateway to Cartagena’s legendary Walled City. Take a moment to look up at its baroque spire and the golden clock face that has kept time for generations of locals and travelers alike.
This structure wasn't always this grand; when it was first built in the 1600s, it was known as the Boca del Puente, or the Mouth of the Bridge. Back then, a drawbridge crossed a moat right where you are standing, protecting the city from pirates and invaders. The two side arches you see weren't added until the 18th century, primarily to improve the flow of air and people into the city.
Now, as you walk through those massive stone arches, the city opens up before you into the Plaza de los Coches. Take a deep breath and listen. You’ll hear the rhythmic clip-clop of horse-drawn carriages, the very "coches" that give this square its modern name.
But as you look at the vibrant colonial buildings with their wooden balconies, it is important to remember that this plaza holds a heavier history. In the colonial era, this was the Plaza del Esclavo, one of the primary sites for the arrival and sale of enslaved people in the New World. It is a place of profound resilience, where the scars of the past meet the vibrant life of the present.
To your right, running along the edge of the square, you will see a series of shaded arches known as the Portal de los Dulces, or the Portal of Sweets. This is a sensory paradise. Long rows of glass jars are filled with traditional treats, many made from recipes passed down through centuries.
Look for the cocadas, which are chewy coconut macaroons, or the panderos and tamarind balls rolled in sugar. These sweets are a direct reflection of the region's heritage, blending African, Spanish, and Indigenous culinary traditions. If you’re lucky, you’ll see the Palenqueras—women in brightly colored dresses with bowls of fruit balanced on their heads—moving through the crowd.
This square was famously a favorite spot of the Nobel-winning author Gabriel García Márquez, who lived nearby. He often wrote about the magical realism of Cartagena, and standing here, with the scent of caramelized sugar in the air and the sun hitting the old stone walls, it’s easy to see why. Take your time here.
Browse the candy stalls, watch the carriages line up, and feel the heartbeat of Cartagena before you head deeper into the labyrinth of the Old Town.