The story
As you stand here on Skólavörðustígur, take a moment to look straight ahead. Rising up like a mountain of concrete and glass is Hallgrímskirkja, the crown jewel of the Reykjavik skyline. But before we look at the tower, look down at your feet.
You are standing on one of the most vibrant stretches of pavement in the world. This rainbow, painted permanently onto the street, began as a temporary celebration for Reykjavik Pride, but the city loved it so much they decided it should stay forever. It is a powerful symbol of Icelandic inclusivity, welcoming everyone who walks this path toward the church.
The name of this street, Skólavörðustígur, holds a secret about what this hill used to look like. It translates to School Cairn Path. Long before the cathedral was built, a massive stone cairn—a varða—stood at the very top of this hill.
In the nineteenth century, students from the nearby Latin School would hike up here to escape their studies. They would pile stones onto the cairn and look out over what was then just a small, sleepy fishing village. That cairn was a landmark for sailors and a symbol of the town's growth.
Eventually, it was torn down to make room for the monument you see today, but the name reminds us of those students who once stood exactly where you are, looking at the same horizon. Now, lift your gaze to the church itself. Designed by Iceland’s most famous architect, Guðjón Samúelsson, the structure is meant to mimic the landscape of Iceland.
Look at the vertical columns flanking the central tower. They aren’t just a stylistic choice; they are designed to resemble the hexagonal basalt columns formed by cooling lava, similar to the ones you might see at the black sand beaches of the south coast. Samúelsson wanted to create a national style of architecture that felt like it grew directly out of the volcanic earth.
In the center of the plaza stands the explorer Leif Erikson, frozen in bronze atop the prow of a ship. This statue was actually a gift from the United States in 1930 to celebrate the one-thousandth anniversary of the Alþingi, Iceland’s parliament. Leif stands as a reminder of the Viking age, looking westward toward the lands he discovered centuries before Columbus.
As you walk upward, listen for the bells. They are among the heaviest in Europe, and their chime carries over the colorful rooftops of the city. Whether you are here for the history, the architecture, or just the perfect photo on the rainbow, you are walking the most storied path in the capital.
Take your time, feel the wind coming off the North Atlantic, and enjoy the climb toward the sentinel on the hill.