The story
Welcome to Leuven. As you stand here in Martelarenplein, facing the grand, cream-colored facade of the railway station, you are standing at the threshold of a city that has been reborn from the ashes. This square is the beating heart of Leuven’s commute, a space of glass, stone, and transit, but beneath your feet and behind these walls lies a story of profound tragedy and incredible resilience.
Take a moment to look at the station itself. Completed in 1875, its eclectic style was meant to impress visitors arriving from Brussels or Liege, signaling that they had entered a center of knowledge and prestige. But if you could peel back the pavement of this square and look into the soil, you would find the scars of August 1914.
During the early days of the First World War, German forces occupied the city. In a period known as the Sack of Leuven, much of the surrounding area was systematically burned. This square was the site of mass executions, where hundreds of civilians were rounded up and killed.
The name Martelarenplein literally translates to Martyrs' Square, a permanent tribute to those who lost their lives right where you are standing. Directly in the center of the square, your eyes are likely drawn to a peculiar sight: a massive, 23-meter-high stainless steel needle piercing a giant, iridescent green beetle. This is Totem, a masterpiece by the Belgian artist Jan Fabre, installed in 2004 to commemorate the 575th anniversary of the University of Leuven.
The beetle is a jewel beetle, known for its shell that never loses its shine, symbolizing the endurance of the city and its intellectual spirit. It sits atop the needle like a specimen pinned in a box, a reminder of the fragility of life and the beauty that remains even in the face of death. If you look toward the modern glass entrances scattered around the square, you’ll find the gateway to a different kind of subterranean world.
Beneath this historic ground lies one of Europe’s largest underground bicycle parking facilities. Thousands of bikes are stored in a high-tech labyrinth, a testament to Leuven’s status as a vibrant student city and a leader in sustainable living. As you prepare to move forward, take a deep breath.
You are standing on layers of history—from the medieval origins of the city to the fires of the Great War, and finally to the bustling, eco-conscious hub of the 21st century. The station stands tall, the beetle glimmers in the light, and the city of Leuven continues to move, forever remembering what lies beneath.