The story
Welcome to Poljana Grgura Ninskog, a space where the ancient Roman past of Split meets the towering spirit of Croatian identity. As you stand here, just outside the massive northern walls of Diocletian’s Palace, your eyes are likely drawn immediately to the giant in bronze. This is Grgur Ninski, or Gregory of Nin, and he is perhaps the most photographed resident of Split.
Towering over twenty feet tall, Gregory is the work of Ivan Meštrović, the most famous sculptor Croatia has ever produced. Look at the way Gregory is depicted. He isn’t just a bishop; he is a force of nature.
His finger is raised in a gesture of authority, and his robes seem to flow with a kinetic energy that defies the weight of the metal. He was a 10th-century reformer who became a national hero. Why?
Because he dared to challenge the Vatican. At a time when the Catholic Church insisted that all services be conducted in Latin, a language the common people could not understand, Gregory fought for the right to use the Old Church Slavonic language. He wanted the word of God to reach the hearts of the people in their own tongue.
But Gregory hasn't always lived here. Originally, Meštrović gifted this statue to the city in 1929, and it was placed right in the center of the Peristyle, the heart of the Palace. During World War II, however, the occupying Italian forces moved it out of the city center.
It was eventually cut into pieces and hidden to prevent it from being melted down for scrap. After the war, it was reassembled and placed here, guarding the Golden Gate. Speaking of the gate, take a moment to look behind you at the Porta Aurea.
This was once the main entrance for the Emperor Diocletian himself. In the 4th century, this was the most decorated gate of the palace, leading directly toward the ancient city of Salona. Today, it serves as a stunning backdrop for Gregory’s dramatic silhouette.
Now, look down at Gregory’s feet. You’ll notice that while the rest of the statue is a weathered, dark green bronze, one specific part shines like polished gold. That is the big toe of his left foot.
Local legend says that if you rub this toe and make a wish, your desire will come true, and more importantly, you are guaranteed to return to Split one day. Thousands of hands touch this toe every single day, wearing the metal down to a bright, golden sheen. Go ahead and take your turn.
Whether you believe in the luck or not, it is a tactile connection to the millions of travelers who have stood in this very spot over the decades. As you continue your walk, remember that in Split, history isn't just something you look at, it is something you can reach out and touch.