The story
Welcome to one of the most enchanting stretches of road in all of Southeast Asia. I’m Avsha, and I’ll be your guide as we wander beneath this magnificent green canopy. As you move along River Road, take a moment to look up.
These towering giants—mostly mahogany and dipterocarp trees—were planted over a century ago during the French Protectorate. The French colonial planners envisioned Siem Reap as a garden city, a tropical reflection of the grand boulevards of Paris. Today, these trees stand as silent sentinels, their interlocking branches creating a natural cathedral that keeps this path significantly cooler than the rest of the city.
To your side, the Siem Reap River flows gently. It is the lifeblood of this community, carrying water from the sacred slopes of Phnom Kulen all the way down to the Tonle Sap, the Great Lake. For over a millennium, this water has sustained the people of Angkor, and even today, you’ll see locals fishing along the banks or children playing in the shallows during the heat of the afternoon.
As we continue, the air often carries the scent of incense and fresh lotus. We are approaching the Royal Gardens, a beautifully manicured park that serves as the front yard for the Royal Residence. This modest, elegant building is the King’s official home when he visits the north.
If you look closely at the highest branches of the trees surrounding the residence, you might notice thousands of dark shapes hanging like heavy fruit. These are giant fruit bats, or flying foxes. They have roosted in these specific trees for decades, and at sunset, they take to the sky in a spectacular, swirling cloud to forage in the countryside.
Just a stone’s throw from the gardens is the most sacred spot in the modern city: the shrine of Preah Ang Chek Preah Ang Chom. It’s always buzzing with activity as locals offer prayers and jasmine garlands to two ancient bronze statues of princesses. Finally, our path brings us toward a landmark that defines colonial elegance—the Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor.
Opened in 1932, the "Grand Hotel," as it’s often called, was built to house the very first wave of international tourists who came to see the temples. Imagine the scene nearly a century ago: vintage Citroëns pulling up to the door, explorers in linen suits, and the same dappled sunlight we see today dancing across the river. This road is more than just a thoroughfare; it is a bridge between the ancient Khmer spirit and the romantic era of early travel.
Walk slowly, listen to the rustle of the leaves, and let the history of Siem Reap settle around you.