The story
Welcome to the beating heart of Cartagena’s Walled City. As you stand here in the Plaza de los Coches, take a moment to listen. Beneath the chatter of the crowds and the distant rhythm of Caribbean music, you might hear the rhythmic clip-clop of horse-drawn carriages.
This sound gives the square its modern name, but these stones have witnessed centuries of transformation, shifting from a place of dark colonial commerce to a vibrant celebration of Colombian culture. Look up at the towering, mustard-yellow structure that dominates the entrance to the square. This is the Torre del Reloj, the iconic Clock Tower.
For centuries, this was the only way into the city, protected by a drawbridge and heavy fortifications. If you look closely at the three pointed arches, you’ll see the scars of time and the architectural ambition of the Spanish Empire. In the center of the plaza stands the statue of Pedro de Heredia, the Spanish conqueror who founded Cartagena in 1533.
While he stands tall in bronze today, the history of this space is complex; for a long time, this was known as the Plaza de los Esclavos, the site of one of the largest slave markets in the New World. It is a place of profound memory, where the pain of the past eventually gave way to the resilience of the local people. Now, turn your attention to the long, arched walkway flanking the side of the square.
This is the Portal de los Dulces, or the Portal of Sweets. It is a sensory delight that feels like stepping into a living painting. Underneath these colonial arches, rows of glass jars are filled with traditional Afro-Colombian treats, meticulously prepared by local palenqueras.
You’ll find cocadas—rich patties made of shredded coconut, pineapple, or guava—and little sugar dolls known as muñequitas. The scent of caramelized sugar and tropical fruit hangs heavy in the humid air. This portal isn't just famous for its treats; it’s a literary landmark too.
Fans of Gabriel García Márquez might recognize this setting from his masterpiece, Love in the Time of Cholera, where the characters navigated these very same shadows. As you walk beneath the portal, notice the vibrant balconies draped in bougainvillea above you. This is the Cartagena people dream of.
I encourage you to stop at one of the stalls, pick up a tamarind ball or a piece of leche burra, and find a spot near the fountain. As the sun begins to set and the yellow walls of the plaza turn a deep orange, you aren't just a visitor—you are part of the unfolding story of a city that has survived everything and emerged with a smile.