The story
Welcome to what the locals affectionately call the salotto di Torino—Turin’s drawing room. As you stand here in Piazza San Carlo, you are surrounded by one of the most harmonious examples of Baroque architecture in Europe. Take a moment to look around.
Notice the grand, sweeping facades and the elegant porticoes that line the square. This isn’t just a public space; for centuries, this has been the soul of Turinese social life, a place for secrets to be whispered over espresso and for the city’s grandest history to unfold. In the very center of the square, perched high on his horse, is Duke Emmanuel Philibert.
This bronze statue is known locally as the Caval ëd Bronz. If you look closely, you will notice the Duke is not charging into battle. Instead, he is depicted in a rare moment of peace, sheathing his sword after the Battle of Saint-Quentin in 1557.
It was this very Duke who moved the capital of the Savoy Duchy from Chambery to Turin, forever changing the destiny of this city and setting it on the path to becoming the first capital of a unified Italy. Now, look toward the southern end of the square. You’ll see two churches that look like twins, framing the entrance to the fashionable Via Roma.
On the left is Santa Cristina, with its ornate facade designed by the famous architect Filippo Juvarra, and on the right is San Carlo Borromeo. Though they look nearly identical at first glance, they were actually built decades apart, standing like silent sentinels guarding the entrance to the heart of the city. Let’s move toward the porticoes on the side of the square.
Specifically, look for the legendary Caffè Torino. Since 1903, this café has been a beacon of Belle Époque elegance, famous for its velvet chairs and sparkling chandeliers. But before you step inside for a bicerin, the traditional local drink of espresso, chocolate, and cream, look down at the pavement right in front of the entrance.
There, embedded in the ground, you’ll find a polished brass bas-relief of a rearing bull—the Toro. The bull is the symbol of Turin, representing the city's strength and resilience. But this particular bull is famous for a quirky local tradition.
Look closely and you’ll see a specific spot on the bull that has been worn down to a bright, shiny gold. Tradition says that if you step on the bull’s private parts with your right heel and spin around, it will bring you immense good luck and ensure your return to Turin. You’ll see tourists and locals alike doing a quick, subtle pirouette as they walk by.
It’s a small, playful ritual in a city that often prides itself on its aristocratic reserve. So, go ahead—take your turn. Spin for luck, then perhaps find a table under the arches.
Watch the world go by in the most beautiful drawing room in Italy, and feel the centuries of Savoy history beneath your feet.