The story
Welcome to the Piazza del Comune, the beating heart of Assisi for over two thousand years. As you stand here, take a moment to look around. You might notice that this square feels different from the narrow, winding alleys you used to get here.
It is open, level, and grand, carved directly into the slope of Mount Subasio. While Assisi is world-famous for its Christian heritage and Saint Francis, the ground you are standing on tells a much older story. This was once the Roman Forum, the center of the ancient city of Asisium.
Immediately, your eyes are drawn to the most striking feature of the piazza: the Temple of Minerva. Look at those six fluted Corinthian columns, rising elegantly from their square bases to support a weathered pediment. Built in the 1st century BC during the reign of Augustus, it is one of the best-preserved Roman temples in the world.
It is a miracle that it survived at all. In the Middle Ages, when many Roman structures were torn down for stone, this temple was repurposed. It served as a jail, then as administrative offices, and finally, in the 16th century, it was transformed into the church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva.
When the famous German writer Goethe visited Assisi in 1786, he was so captivated by these columns that he famously refused to even visit the Basilica of Saint Francis. For him, this temple represented the pinnacle of classical beauty. If you look closely at the steps between the columns, you can almost imagine the ancient Romans gathering here to offer sacrifices or debate the politics of the Empire.
To the left of the temple stands the Torre del Popolo, the Tower of the People. Completed in 1305, it was the symbol of the city's growing civic power, independent from the church. Next to it is the Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo, once the seat of the local magistrate.
These rugged, stone buildings offer a stark medieval contrast to the refined Roman lines of the temple. Across the square, you’ll see the Palazzo dei Priori, which still serves as Assisi's town hall today. If you listen closely, you’ll hear the gentle splash of the Fountain of the Three Lions nearby, where locals have gathered for centuries.
But remember, the most fascinating part of this square is actually beneath your feet. Just a few meters down lies the original Roman paving of the forum, along with the remains of a tribunal and a temple dedicated to Castor and Pollux. The Piazza del Comune is a vertical timeline.
It is a place where the ancient world, the Middle Ages, and the modern day don’t just coexist—they lean against one another, supporting the weight of history. Take a seat at one of the cafes, watch the light hit the pink Subasio stone, and feel the centuries pass you by.