The story
Welcome to one of Oaxaca’s most enchanting corners. As you stand here on Calle Rufino Tamayo, you are stepping back into the 18th century, deep within the heart of the Barrio de Xochimilco. This neighborhood is the oldest in the city, founded by the Xochimilca people long before the Spanish arrived, but the massive structures rising above you tell a story of colonial ambition and local necessity.
Look up at the Los Arcos de Xochimilco. These sturdy, weathered arches are part of an aqueduct built between 1727 and 1751. For over two centuries, this stone lifeline carried fresh water from the springs of San Felipe del Agua down into the center of Oaxaca City.
Notice the peculiar hue of the stone. This is the famous cantera verde, or green quarry stone, which gives Oaxaca its nickname, the Green City. Depending on the time of day and the humidity in the air, these stones shift from a pale sage to a deep, mossy emerald.
As you walk alongside the arches, imagine the sheer scale of this engineering feat. The aqueduct spans roughly 300 meters along this street alone, but its impact was felt by every citizen. If you look closely at the base of the structures, you might spot some of the original brickwork peeking through the stone.
But this wasn't just a place for engineering; it was a place for community. Just a short stroll away are the famous Lavaderos de Xochimilco. These communal laundry basins were once the social hub of the neighborhood.
While the aqueduct moved water silently overhead, the sounds of splashing water and shared gossip filled the air below as women gathered to wash linens and catch up on the day's news. The street itself is named after Rufino Tamayo, one of Mexico’s most celebrated painters, who was born just a few blocks from here. It is easy to see how the vibrant colors of this barrio influenced his palette.
The stark contrast of the colonial arches against the brightly painted homes—terracotta reds, deep blues, and sunny yellows—creates a living canvas that changes with every step you take. Take a moment to notice the quiet here. Unlike the bustling Zócalo just a few blocks south, Xochimilco retains a village-like atmosphere.
The artisans here are still famous for their intricate weaving and traditional textiles. As you continue your journey through these cobblestone streets, let the shadow of the arches guide you. They are more than just ruins of a water system; they are the backbone of a community that has flourished for centuries, bridging the gap between Oaxaca’s indigenous roots and its colonial history.
Keep your eyes open for the small details—the iron lanterns, the climbing bougainvillea, and the way the sky perfectly frames each archway. Enjoy the timeless rhythm of the Barrio de Xochimilco.