The story
Welcome to the Casco Viejo, the medieval pulse of Bilbao. You are standing where this city was born over seven centuries ago. In Basque, we call this area Zazpikaleak, which translates simply to The Seven Streets.
Originally, this was a fortified village, a dense grid of stone and commerce perched on the banks of the Nervión River. As you walk through these narrow, winding corridors, you aren't just traversing a neighborhood; you are walking through the very DNA of the Basque people. Let’s look at the layout.
The original seven streets—Somera, Artecalle, Tendería, Belosticalle, Carnicería Vieja, Barrencalle, and Barrencalle Barrena—fan out away from the river. If you start at Somera, the name literally means the upper one. This was the first street built when the city was founded in the year 1300.
Notice how the buildings lean toward each other, their wooden balconies and colorful shutters nearly touching across the gaps, creating a natural canopy that keeps the Atlantic rain off the cobblestones. These streets were named for the trades that once thrived here. Tendería was the street of shopkeepers, while Carnicería Vieja was the site of the city’s first meat market.
As you weave through the alleys, you will eventually find yourself in the shadow of the Santiago Cathedral. This Gothic masterpiece is dedicated to Saint James, as Bilbao is a vital stop on the Northern Route of the Camino de Santiago. Look closely at the intricate stone carvings on the facade; they have greeted pilgrims for hundreds of years.
Just a short walk from the cathedral is the Plaza Nueva, a grand Neoclassical square enclosed by 64 arches. This is the city’s communal living room. It is the perfect place to engage in the local ritual of txikiteo—the art of moving from bar to bar, sipping small glasses of wine and sampling pintxos, those elaborate Basque appetizers held together by a simple toothpick.
Before you leave the labyrinth, head toward the river to see the Church of San Antón and the Mercado de la Ribera. The market is an Art Deco marvel and stands as one of the largest covered markets in Europe. But even amidst this beauty, there is a story of resilience.
In August 1983, a devastating flood submerged these streets under five meters of water. If you look at some of the older walls in the Casco Viejo, you may still see small plaques marking the high-water line. The fact that these streets are so vibrant today is a testament to the stubborn, hardworking spirit of the Bilbaínos.
Take your time now. Let the scent of fresh bread and salt cod lead you. The Siete Calles doesn't just hold history; it breathes it.
Enjoy your walk through the soul of Bilbao.