The story
Welcome to Kodai-ji. As you step through the gates of this sanctuary in the heart of Kyoto’s Higashiyama district, you aren't just entering a temple; you are stepping into a profound story of love and legacy. Established in 1606, Kodai-ji was built by a woman named Nene, also known as Kita-no-Mandokoro.
She was the widow of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the great unifier of Japan. After his death, Nene became a nun and founded this temple to pray for his soul, making every stone and garden a testament to their bond. As you begin your walk, find your way to the Hojo, or the Main Hall.
Here, you’ll encounter the vast Zen rock garden. Notice the meticulously raked white sand, which is often transformed into different patterns or artistic installations depending on the season. Look beyond the sand toward the Higashiyama mountains.
This is a classic example of "shakkai" or borrowed scenery, where the natural landscape outside the temple is integrated into the garden's design to create a sense of infinite space. Follow the path toward the Garyu-chi Pond. The name means "Sleeping Dragon," and if you look at the covered wooden corridor known as the Garyu-ro, you can see why.
The roof curves and undulates across the hillside like the spine of a dragon resting over the water. On a clear day, the reflection of the maple trees in the pond is so perfect it’s hard to tell where the water ends and the earth begins. Continue your climb toward the Otama-ya, the sanctuary where Nene herself is enshrined.
This building is a treasure trove of art history. Look closely at the lacquerwork on the altars and stairs. This is the world-renowned Kodai-ji Maki-e, a technique using gold and silver powder sprinkled onto wet lacquer.
The motifs of autumn grasses and flowers are elegant and haunting, reflecting the fleeting nature of life that Zen Buddhism emphasizes. As you head higher up the hillside, the atmosphere shifts. You’ll find yourself walking through a dense, towering bamboo grove.
While smaller than the famous one in Arashiyama, this grove offers a more intimate experience. The sound of the stalks knocking against each other in the wind is one of the most peaceful sounds in Kyoto. Nearby stand two historic tea houses, the Kasa-tei and Shigure-tei.
These were moved here from Hideyoshi’s Fushimi Castle and represent the pinnacle of tea culture during the Momoyama period. Take a moment to breathe in the scent of the moss and the ancient cedar trees. Kodai-ji is a place where the grand history of samurai unifiers meets the quiet, enduring strength of a woman’s devotion.
As you descend back toward the city, carry that stillness with you. Thank you for joining me on this walk through Nene’s sanctuary.