The story
As you walk along Calle Colima, take a deep breath and let the dappled sunlight filtering through the canopy of ash and jacaranda trees settle over you. You are standing in the heart of Roma Norte, a neighborhood that feels like a living, breathing film set. But before this street was lined with world-class art galleries, chic concept stores, and the aroma of specialty espresso, it held the echoes of laughter, greasepaint, and the roar of exotic animals.
To understand the soul of Colima, we have to look back to the late nineteenth century and a man named Edward Orrin. He was the owner of the legendary Circo Orrin, the most famous circus in Mexican history. When the city began to expand into these former farmlands, Orrin wasn't just a performer; he was a visionary developer.
In fact, if you look at the street signs around you—Colima, Tabasco, Cordoba—you are seeing Orrin’s legacy. He chose to name the streets after the Mexican states where his circus had performed to packed audiences. The most beloved figure of that era wasn't a politician or a general, but an English clown named Richard Bell.
He lived right here in the Roma. Bell was so popular that it’s said President Porfirio Diaz once remarked he couldn't be truly powerful because the people loved the clown more than the president. Imagine, as you pass these ornate stone facades, the sound of Bell’s carriage rattling over the pavement, returning home after a night of making the city laugh.
Look closely at the architecture as you walk. Notice the eclectic mix of styles—the Porfirian-era mansions with their French-inspired balconies, the delicate Art Nouveau ironwork, and the sturdy Art Deco lines that arrived later. These buildings tell a story of a neighborhood that was built to be a "Little Paris," a place for the elite to escape the crowded city center.
However, the beauty of Colima is also defined by its resilience. After the devastating earthquake of 1985, many feared these streets would be lost to ruin. Instead, the neighborhood reinvented itself.
The grand old houses were transformed. What was once a formal drawing room might now be a contemporary art space like Galería OMR, or a hidden courtyard housing a lush botanical shop. As you continue your stroll, notice how the past and present blur.
The ghosts of the circus performers have been replaced by the creative pulse of modern Mexico City. Colima remains a street of spectacles, whether it’s the curated window displays or the simple, perfect theater of people-watching from a sidewalk cafe. Enjoy the rhythm of this street, for every step you take follows the path where the circus once came to town and decided to never truly leave.